Day 5 – Lake Ohau Lodge to Omarama – A2O

How else do you celebrate the view and the end of a ride?

After settling into our room at the Lodge we were ready for a drink.  We found a lovely seat outdoors which looked out over the lake.  We ended up sitting there for quite a while chatting to a foursome who had a bach at Kurow.  Dinner was served in two sittings with mostly children at the first sitting and then the adults at the second.  It was food served on a grand scale.  We had three courses; a soup, a choice between lamb rump and confit duck leg, and the dessert was a pannacotta.  It was all very delicious - not fine dining but good food.  At our table there were four of us who were on the A2O and a German couple who were travelling round the South Island.  The German couple had cycled the route from Omarama to Lake Ohau Lodge then back to Omarama where they picked up their car.  It sounded like hard work, not helped by the wind in their face the whole way. 

About to leave Lake Ohau Lodge

Our stay at Lake Ohau Lodge coincided with New Year’s Eve,  so the Lodge was packed with people and I doubt whether they had a spare bed.  It was a quirky place with the old lodge still apparent, but much changed with the addition of more motel rooms.  What hadn’t changed was the setting which was stunning. 

It seemed many people were going to be partying, but fortunately our room was some distance from party central. However, when we arrived back, there was a bit of loud music and frivolity going on next door.  We were too tired to see the new year in and with paper thin walls, it was clear that sleep was not going to happen.  Eventually at around 10:30pm I went next door and asked the guests to be a little quieter.  They turned out to be three young men who very polite and said they would stop the noise immediately, which they did. It was really nice to find them so obliging and sleep ensued shortly after.

Waiting for a fast rider to go past

Breakfast was part of the package.  Continental to start with and then bacon and eggs.  Perfect food for what is regarded as one of the more difficult days. The food again was delicious and the eggs even had runny yolks.  In addition, we could order a flat white which was another treat.  What could be better.  Portion sizes were great as well.

The ride was up to the high point at Tairnbrae and then descended to Quailburn Road ending at an historic woolshed.  The first  16 kilometres of the track was quite a challenge.  The information provided said that the fitness and skill level required for the total ride was moderate.  In addition, they said the first few kilometres of the track were easy cycling along the lower slopes of the Ruataniwha Range.  I am not sure what

One of the useful bridges on the early part of the trail

their definition of easy is, but it was rough with loose rocks and a steady long climb.  This part was more like mountain bike riding than anything else. The main climb, which was about five kilometres from the high point, was hard work but the weather was cool which made it a little easier I think.  About an hour or so after starting from Lake Ohau Lodge, we reached the summit.  There were a number of “false” summits prior to this. The track was quite busy with a lot of cyclists on the A2O as well as holiday makers going to the top and back.

The trail goes through some beech trees

At the Tairnbrae high point we stopped and took photos and chatted to a young French/German couple (she was French and he was German). They were living in Mulhouse, Alsace.  They were both teachers and she worked in France and he in Germany just across the border.  They were having a sabbatical.  The views back to the Ben Ohau basin were spectacular and I think we had views of Aoraki Mt Cook as well as couple of other high mountains.

She has her aim right! But still wet feet.

The ride down was a bit challenging with a couple of switchbacks, then it was a rolling ride down.  It was rather fast at times and required a lot of concentration to make sure the track was followed, rather than becoming distracted and getting thrown off the bike.  About halfway down we came across a woman from Australia who in a moment’s lapse of concentration hit a large rock which took out her front wheel flinging her to the ground and causing her to break her shoulder (we found out later). 

Yes we are at the highest point and all by pedal power

The emergency services were contacted and they dispatched two 4WDs with six firemen who we encountered further down the track, bumping their way up to the scene of the accident. They looked a picture all dressed in their gear crammed into the vehicles.  Perhaps a little overkill.

Lunch was at Quailburn Woolshed.  It was nice and peaceful despite a couple of campervans in the splendid isolation.  By that time the weather was quite grey with rain to the west and we wondered whether we were going to get drenched. 

The rest of the ride was on a gravel road with the wind, which had risen after our uphill climb, behind us allowing us to reach quite high speeds on the road that primarily went down to the valley.  It was exhilarating testing one’s skill knowing that if you made one mistake you would find yourself on the ground and into a lot of gravel.  It would not have been forgiving. 

Quailburn Historic Woolshed

Outrunning the rain at high speed

One option before Omarama was to go to the Clay Cliffs – a return bike ride of 14 kilometres.  We decided we felt good enough to do that so set out along the gravel road.  It was not a pleasant experience though as every man and his dog wanted to go and view them.  We rode about three kilometres and then decided another four kilometres of dust would not be fun. Also, we were fed up with the SUVs and utes that sped along the road without too much concern for cyclists.  The cars, funnily enough, were more considerate.

 It was then a fast down hill run to our motel.  B had booked a hot tub and we went and soaked ourselves for about an hour which was very nice. 

Despite a peak night, there was only one place open serving a meal - the pub.  We arrived to find that it was extremely busy with virtually nowhere to sit.  However, we encountered another couple who were on the trail with us and they invited us to sit with them.  Finally, we found a picnic table to sit whereupon another couple, who were friends with the woman who broke her shoulder, also arrived. We invited them to sit with us and we had a delightful evening eating pub food and sharing experiences. 

Finally rest

Total distance ridden: 52 kilometres, actual cycling time 3 hours 17 mins, elapsed time about five hours.